Coromandel Peninsula | Twists, Turns, and Pure Riding Bliss

Uncovering a Riding Gem on New Zealand's North Island

This twisting, turning ribbon of bitumen winds its way around the almost 200km of coastline and forest, rarely running straight for more than a heartbeat. After studying the map, chatting with locals, and triple-checking the weather, I set off in an anticlockwise direction. Morning tea, lunch, and a few leg-stretching lookouts were penciled in, but otherwise, the day promised a day of pure riding bliss half in the saddle, half soaking in the sights.

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A quick word of advice: timing is everything with this ride. Late autumn or early spring are perfect because they provide cooler days, lighter traffic, and more choices of pace. Locals told me that in summer the roads choke with holiday traffic, to the point many residents stock their fridges and refuse to leave their home. By contrast, my winter ride was blissfully quiet; I overtook just a single car the entire day. The only thing to watch for is the weather, conditions can change fast. Bring wet-weather gear and keep an eye on the forecast. Other than that. the only thing to do is get ready for a ride that will stay with you long after you’ve left the peninsula behind.

Tairua is a charming coastal town that perfectly blends relaxation and adventure. Framed by golden beaches and a sheltered harbour, it’s a favourite spot for swimming, surfing, and boating. Across the water, the twin peaks of Paku Hill rise dramatically, offering panoramic views of the coastline and offshore islands. The town itself has a relaxed, holiday vibe, with cafés, galleries, and a friendly community atmosphere. Tairua also serves as a gateway to iconic nearby attractions, including Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove, making it an ideal base for exploring the peninsula or simply unwinding by the sea. 

Leaving Tairua, the road north immediately sets the tone for the day. The stretch to Pumpkin Hill is pure rider’s delight. The road twists left and right in what feels like riding heaven with no end. The super smooth road climbs steadily towards Pumpkin Hill lookout with beautiful cambered corners and amazing visibility. The turns come thick and fast, a mix of sweeping bends and tighter twists that reward rhythm and confidence. The final run to the summit of Pumpkin Hill delivers one of the best lookouts on the peninsula, with panoramic views stretching back over Tairua Harbour and out across the ocean. It’s the kind of stop where you’ll want to park up, pull off the helmet, and just take it all in. While your taking in the view, remind yourself that the ride has only just begun. There are no transport or connecting stages on this ride, every kilometer is like a Super Special Stage.

Now it’s time to head downhill and back to sea level for the run to the beautiful town of Whitianga where morning tea awaits at one of the many friendly cafés along the waterfront. The 33km stretch from Pumpkin Hill to Whitianga offers stunning coastal views before winding through the small settlements of Cooks Beach snd Hahei, each with their own charm. Just before Hahei you’ll find the turn-offs to Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove—two of the Coromandel’s most famous attractions. While I didn't detour for this ride I was there a couple of day later, and if you’re planning to spend a few days in the region, both are must-see experiences.

Whitianga is a lively harbour town and the gateway to Mercury Bay. Known for its vibrant harbour, access to some of New Zealand’s best fishing grounds, and as the home of Gene Denton from Whitiangler Fishing Charters, Whitianga is a favourite base for both holidaymakers and anglers. The town offers everything from fresh seafood dining to boutique shopping and art galleries, while the marina buzzes with boats heading out to offshore islands or chasing game fish.

With its rich Māori and maritime history, Whitianga blends culture, nature, and recreation beautifully. It’s also the perfect place to stop for morning tea, which is exactly what I did at the Harbour House Café overlooking the estuary. With a tempting menu of hearty breakfasts and satisfying lunches, I settled on a perfectly made coffee from the skilled barista and enjoyed the sunshine.

Leaving Whitianga, the ride to Kūaotunu is a short but rewarding 18km run packed with charm. The road hugs the coastline before winding through lush farmland and pockets of native bush. Small beachside settlements like Wharekaho (Buffalo Beach) reveal golden sand and inviting bays. If time allows, stop at Wharekaho Beach and experience its pure black, silky volcanic sands. It's amazing to walk on barefoot, though best avoid doing this when its a hot day.

Kūaotunu, once a gold-mining village, is now a relaxed coastal gem with a stunning beach and welcoming community. In the off-season, some eateries close, including the legendary Kūaotunu Pizzeria, but that’s understandable, everyone needs a break. At the northern tip of the ride, a short walk up to the lookout rewards you with magical panoramic views; well worth parking the bike to take in.

The ride from Kūaotunu to the town of Coromandel, is one of the most memorable stretches of the loop. Covering roughly 40km, the road winds tightly along the rugged western coastline, offering constant views out over the vast Pacific Ocean. The conditions are generally good, though the road is narrow in places with plenty of bends, so it demands concentration. With the sea on one side and dense native bush on the other, the scenery is spectacular. Because the road faces the open ocean, the weather can change quickly, sunshine can turn to mist, rain, or strong winds in minutes - as it did for me. Small settlements like Matarangi and Little Bay provide opportunities to stop and enjoy quiet beaches, and grab a coffee.

Coromandel town itself is rich in history, once a gold-mining hub and now a favourite destination for artists, holidaymakers, and those seeking a slower pace. Its main street is lined with colonial-era buildings, boutique shops, galleries, and laid-back cafés. I stopped for lunch at Pepper Tree Restaurant, a local favourite set in a charming historic building. With a leafy courtyard, and a menu showcasing fresh seafood and regional produce, it was the perfect spot to refuel my tummy before continuing the ride towards Thames.

From Coromandel town, the road south to Thames hugs the western coastline of the peninsula, the side that faces Auckland across the Hauraki Gulf. On a clear day you can see the city shimmering in the distance, a reminder of how close this paradise is to New Zealand’s biggest urban centre. The ride itself is just as unforgettable as everything that came before it. The road twists and turns at sea level with rocky beaches to one side and sheer rock faces or bush-covered banks rising on the other. Narrow one-way bridges and blind bends demand respect and care. A sobering sight along the way was a car overturned on a beach after leaving the road at speed, these wonderful roads also hold danger for the unwary.

The distance from Coromandel to Thames is around 55km, but it feels longer thanks to the number of picture-perfect places to stop.

Thames has a fascinating past as one of New Zealand’s early gold-mining towns, and traces of that heritage remain in its historic buildings, museums, and character-filled main street.

At Thames you can either point the bike back to Auckland, just 115km away, or, as I did, turn east and ride back across the peninsula to Tairua. The last leg to Tairua is every bit as exhilarating as the rest of the loop, twisting and climbing through forested logging areas and spectacular mountain passes. Along the roadside, brightly painted boxes appear in clusters, they are beehives producing New Zealand’s world-famous mānuka honey.

Although it felt like I had only been riding for a short while, as I departed Thames the light was already beginning to fade. The roads are good, but I wasn’t keen to be tackling unfamiliar mountain twists in the dark. I arrived back in Tairua just as the last of the daylight disappeared, tired but grinning ear to ear. It had been a brilliant day of riding, so good, in fact, that I made the decision right then to do it all again the next day in the opposite direction.

My base in Tairua was the welcoming Tairua Shores Motel, where I stayed in one of the courtyard rooms. Well-appointed, comfortable, and thoughtfully managed, it was the perfect place to relax after a full day’s riding. The setting couldn’t be better, just a minute’s walk to the water and right at the beginning of the walkways that trace the shoreline around to Tairua Beach.

Each morning, I followed a local recommendation and made my way to Two Tides Bakery for breakfast. Their excellent coffee and fresh food quickly became a highlight, and I often ordered takeaway so I could savour it while enjoying the stunning coastal views. As well as being a great place to visit and an ideal launching pad for the Coromandel Peninsula Loop, Tairua is also home to Dr Riley Elliott, better known as Shark Man, whose story will feature in the next instalment of our #UnitedByYamaha campaign.